August 25 – Sept 4th, 2012
Back during the summer, I had
gotten it in my head that I needed to go on another hiking adventure. Like most of my crazy adventures, something
pops in my head and I must research it to the Nth degree and go full steam
ahead in to planning it. Well, at some
point during the summer it popped in my head that I HAD to go hiking in
Alaska. So, I started researching places
to hike in Alaska. It was starting off
to be kind of difficult because unbeknown to me, most of Alaska ‘s hiking is
basically off trail, meaning that there are no real defined trails to hike
because they want to keep the landscape natural. I had never hiked off trail and it seemed a
little dangerous to do that completely by myself. So, I did some internet searching and I found
a hiking guide named Carl Donohue that would take groups of people out into the
Wrangell – St. Elias Mountain range for hiking expeditions. Needless to say, my mom wasn’t very happy to
learn that I had found some random dude on the internet to guide me thru the
Alaskan outback all by myself. To
ease her worries, I called a travel agency in Anchorage and spoke to a very nice
lady who called around the area and vouched for Carl that he was on the up and
up. After emailing Carl back and forth
for about a month the plan was all set.
I was to fly into Anchorage on August 25th, pick up my hotel
shuttle at the airport, stay at the Inlet Hotel near downtown Anchorage, get
picked up by Carl on the 26th and drive 6 hours outside of Anchorage
to a small town called McCarthy, Alaska.
Once in McCarthy we were to stay the night at a lodge and then the next
morning take a brush plane out into the Wrangell-St. Elias Mountain Range to be
dropped off. We would then hike for the
next 6 days and be picked up by the brush plane at the end of our hike and be
taken back to McCarthy. We would stay
the night once again at the lodge and then drive the 6 hours back to Anchorage
where I would be dropped back off at my hotel and wait for my flight back to
Michigan. Sounds fun, right?
On Saturday, August 25th,
I had all my gear packed and ready to fly to Anchorage! Gary helped me and followed me to the
airport. I left my Jeep at my work so
that I had a way to drive home when I got back and so I could park for free for
a week instead of in the airport parking lot.
Once we got to the airport, checking in was pretty standard, except this
time I had a bunch of hiking equipment in my luggage and I didn’t want the TSA
to confiscate any of it. So, I let the
guy know that I had a hiking stove and gasoline canisters. He tells me that even though they are empty,
they cannot be checked. I was kind of
upset, because now I didn’t have fuel canisters for my stove, but I would
rather get them out of my luggage now then get to Anchorage and be furious to
find out that they were taken out of my luggage never to be seen again. Other than that nuisance, everything else
went fine with check in. So, I was off
to Alaska on my big adventure!
Around 7pm I finally arrived in
Anchorage. As we were landing I saw a
Moose and her baby grazing not too far from the strip. I got my luggage just fine and called the
hotel shuttle to pick me up. At this
time, it had been about 70-80 degrees in Michigan. I had been watching the weather in Alaska and
they were about 30 degrees cooler than us.
Even so, I wasn’t prepared for what a shock that cool weather was going
to be for me! When I got to my hotel and
got settled in, I walked over to a small grocery store to get something to
drink and eat for dinner, and possibly some other random snacks for the car
ride to McCarthy. I could not believe
how crazy expensive everything was! At
least double what it is here in Michigan.
Anyway, I grabbed some food and headed back to my little hotel room to
watch TV and nervously go over all my equipment and pack my backpack for the
next day’s pick up.
My hotel room |
View of Anchorage from my hotel room |
Around 8:15am on the 26th
Carl arrived at my hotel lobby to pick up me and my gear. He’s originally from Australia, so it was fun
to listen to him talk with his accent.
When I got out to his van to toss my gear in, the first thing out of his
mouth was “I haven’t seen an external frame backpack in a long time! Where did you get this thing?” Sigh.
I didn’t know that external frames were out of date and dorky apparently,
but I got it specifically because of the external frame. Not having a lot of upper body strength, it’s
easier to lift the external frame backpack because there is a bar to grab onto
rather than just flimsy straps. But, I
digress… Anywho, with Carl in the van
was this lady named Cindy. She was from
North Carolina and had decided to go hiking with Carl at the last minute. I was kind of glad that she was there because
it was nice to have at least someone else in the group besides just me and
Carl. So, after we packed up we headed
out of Anchorage on highway 1 and towards McCarthy.
Driving towards McCarthy was really
beautiful. Even tho it was raining that
day and was probably about 50 degrees out, the scenery was amazing.
Anchorage to Fairbanks train |
The Alaska Pipeline |
After driving for several hours,
we came to this little place in the middle of nowhere, which describes just
about every place you see that’s outside of Anchorage, Called the Golden Spruce
to rest and have lunch. Carl let us know
that the next leg of our journey from that point could take us 1 hour or 3
hours depending on how the road was. The
only road up to McCarthy was a 60 mile long, 2-lane dirt road! He said that this late in the season the pot
holes and chatter bumps could be so bad that we could blow a tire or break down
or just have to drive 30 miles an hour.
Plan for the worse, and hope for the best I guess. Luckily, the road wasn’t too bad and we
actually made decent time.
We arrived in the late afternoon
in McCarthy to this lodge that Carl had arranged for us to stay at for the
night. We didn’t have individual rooms,
we just laid out our sleeping bags on couches in this common area for the
night. We decide to go thru our gear and
organize our stuff for the next day’s flight out into the brush. We decided to share one stove between all of
us, so I could leave my stove behind and Carl also said that we didn’t need our
water filters. Cindy and I looked at him
like he was crazy. You cannot drink any
water without filtering it or you will get really sick, and you do NOT want to
be that kind of sick when you’re hiking and have a limited number pairs of underwear
and a limited amount of toilet paper!
But, he said that no one who hikes in the Alaskan mountains ever brings
a water filter because there’s not enough people to pollute it. I was relieved to get rid of that weight, but
I was definitely nervous about drinking unfiltered water.
Kennicott River Lodge and Hostel - McCarthy, Alaska (Can you tell we drove on a dirt road for 60 miles?) |
Then Carl said, “Oh my God, is
that all the clothes you have for hiking?”
I thought I had been really smart about packing all my winter gear. I had Under Armour long underwear pants and a
shirt, two breathable t-shirts, another breathable long sleeve shirt, hiking
pants, boots, 2 pair wool socks and liners, gloves, 2 buffs, and a rain jacket. I figured I would wear all my clothes at the
same time and at all times, but he was very concerned that I still would not be
warm enough. So, he gave me one of his fleece
jackets. Then, he gave me a second
sleeping bag to carry because he said that mine was not warm enough and I would
have to put my sleeping bag into his at night in order to stay warm. I really could not believe that it would be
THAT cold seeing as it was just labor day weekend and the weather had been
around 50 degrees in Anchorage, but I would soon find out that he was totally
right! The other thing he told us was
that we were not allowed to carry anything on the outside of our pack because we
could lose things going thru the brush.
That really sucked because a lot of my pack is made to carry things on
the outside. So I had to shove
everything into the main body of my pack.
This proved to be very hard for me and made my balance way off since my
pack ended up towering above my head.
But, he was the expert and I didn’t want to argue with him and I’m tough
anyway so I just did it. It actually
proved a good thing because Cindy later lost her water bottle when walking thru
the brush because she had placed it in an outside pocket.
After getting all our gear
organized, we decided to walk into ‘town’, check our flight schedule and get
something to eat. McCarthy consists of
about a dozen houses and the yearly population is around 20. During the summer, there are a lot of guides
that live in town, so it’s much busier.
None of the roads are paved and tourists have to park in a lot and then
walk into town, which is about ½ mile.
Most of the locals tooled around on quads and not in cars. I think it’s the first place I’ve been where
I’ve seen more ATVs used then cars!
Community Church (Sunday morning the 'lot' was full of Quads, not cars) |
Walking into McCarthy |
Downtown McCarthy! |
The Golden Saloon (Aka the only place to eat in town) |
Yes, some of these houses are occupied |
After getting a good dinner, we
headed back to the lodge and got around for bed. Since we were all sleeping in an open room,
Cindy and I had to endure the loud snoring of Carl all night long (even though
he denies that he actually snores, but he does). The
next day we got up early, walked back into town for our last-good-meal-for-a-week,
walked back to the lodge, grabbed our packs and headed for the ‘bus stop’ to
take the shuttle to the airport.
Cindy at the 'bus stop' with her teeny tiny pack |
Me with my super ridiculously huge pack |
Me and Cindy in the 4 person brush plane |
Unfortunately, it was raining /
sleeting when we got off the plane and unloaded our gear. As I stood there in the rain, already wet and
freezing in the first 5 minutes, Carl gave us hiking instructions that we were
to follow for the next week. Basically,
the only rule was to do as he said, when he said it, and ask questions
later. He also gave Cindy and I our own
can of ‘bear spray’ that we were to carry with us everywhere we went, even when
our packs were off and we were walking around camp, even when we just had to go
pee, we do NOT leave that bear spray out of our sight. After about 20 minutes of instruction, Carl
and Cindy get out their rain pants to put on before we start hiking. “Where are your rain pants, Amy?” I didn’t bring any. Carl and Cindy looked at me with wide
eyes. Oh my God, you don’t have rain
pants?? At the time, I really didn’t see
what the problem was. I have hiked
before in the rain and I actually had a hiking instructor tell me that they
never use rain pants. Weeeell, that’s
all fine and good for Michigan weather and hiking on trails apparently, but
hiking in Alaska, not on trails and thru the brush, rain pants are a must
(which is what I found out the hard way).
So, we started on our way. Near the air strip were a few abandoned buildings left over from some small mining settlement, but once we got away from the strip, all there was to see was brush and grass. Right away I quickly realized that this was going to be a lot harder then I had ever thought in my entire life. It was raining and cold and my pants were already soaked thru from the brush rubbing on me as we walked thru There were no trails, the ground was wet and extremely ‘squishy’, like a sponge and we were constantly pushing the brush out of our way. My pack was so high above my head from stuffing everything inside of it that my balance was way off, in addition to my rain jacket being slippery from the rain and walking over uneven squishy ground, my pack was constantly shifting from side to side. I had to tighten my straps as hard as I could in order to keep my pack from sliding around. (Side note: after the trip, I noticed that areas on both my shoulders were numb from the straps of my backpack. As of December, it's almost back to normal but not quite. I'm not sure if the feeling will ever completely come back) It was so hard to walk and keep up with Carl and Cindy, I quickly realized that if there was a weak link in this trio that It was definitely me.
So, we started on our way. Near the air strip were a few abandoned buildings left over from some small mining settlement, but once we got away from the strip, all there was to see was brush and grass. Right away I quickly realized that this was going to be a lot harder then I had ever thought in my entire life. It was raining and cold and my pants were already soaked thru from the brush rubbing on me as we walked thru There were no trails, the ground was wet and extremely ‘squishy’, like a sponge and we were constantly pushing the brush out of our way. My pack was so high above my head from stuffing everything inside of it that my balance was way off, in addition to my rain jacket being slippery from the rain and walking over uneven squishy ground, my pack was constantly shifting from side to side. I had to tighten my straps as hard as I could in order to keep my pack from sliding around. (Side note: after the trip, I noticed that areas on both my shoulders were numb from the straps of my backpack. As of December, it's almost back to normal but not quite. I'm not sure if the feeling will ever completely come back) It was so hard to walk and keep up with Carl and Cindy, I quickly realized that if there was a weak link in this trio that It was definitely me.
When we started up our first
hill, I was already worried that I wasn’t going to be able to do this for the
next 6 days. You think walking up a hill
is hard? Try walking up a hill, on
squishy ground, with 30 lbs of weight on your back that is constantly shifting
because your jacket is wet, in the rain and the cold….and do it for an hour or
two, just going up and up and up. And when
I say ‘hill’ I don’t mean a gentle incline.
I mean an incline sharp enough that we had to walk up it in a switchback
fashion and we had to use our trekking pole to help keep stable when our foot
slips on the squishy, wet grass. At
least I very quickly got that ‘runner high’ feeling so I literally don’t remember
too much about this leg of our trip, which is probably a good thing. I do know that I hate going up and up and up
without any relief. I literally would
just count in my head or repeat something over and over with every
footstep. Like, “1, 2, 3, and 4, 1, 2, 3
and 4”. The rhythm helped me keep
going. Sounds kind of crazy, but it kept
me from not focusing on the fact that I already wanted to quit! After about 3-4 hours of hiking, Carl finally
said that we had reached our first camping spot for the night. Thank God! (I signed up for this right??)
Once we reached our camping area,
Carl instructed us where we would put our tents up. Then we went off about 50 yards to put up the
cooking and eating tent. Since we were in bear country, we really needed to
follow the back country rules. When you
camp, your sleeping area, your eating area and your bathroom area need to make
a triangle and be about 50 yards apart from each other. In Michigan, I never follow this rule, except
to make sure to hang my food so little critters don’t get into it while I’m
sleeping. However, since there were no
trees where we were hiking, we had to keep all our food in these ‘bear
containers’. That included all food,
toothpaste, foot powder, soap and anything will a smell and that a bear would
possibly eat….or at least be curious enough about to come and rip your tent to
shreds to find out if it was something he could eat. Then, whatever wouldn’t fit in the bear
containers, we put into these Kevlar bags that Carl had. Even so, you couldn’t just leave the bear
containers and Kevlar bags in the cook tent overnight. Carl would take each container and bag and
hide it separately away from the cook tent.
The more that smells were spread out, the less likely the bears would
come around. Let me tell you, I’m so
glad Carl was there to do all this work because after a day of hiking in the
rain and cold the last thing I give a crap about it whether or not a bear comes
sniffing around camp looking for food.
It was all I could do just to walk from my tent over to the cook tent to
eat. Believe me, it eventually got to a point
where I would debate whether or not to eat because I was so tired and cold and
I didn’t want to walk that extra 50 yards to the cook tent. Anyway, while Cindy and I put up our tents,
Carl set up the cook tent. Once we got
our stuff organized, we took our bear containers over to the cook tent to make
dinner, relax and eat. Just after one
day, never in my life had a freeze dried meal tasted sooooooo good! After eating, there really wasn’t much else
to do because it was raining. Cindy and
Carl stayed in the cook tent to talk and I went back to my tent to get warm and
doze on and off until the next morning.
The next morning I woke up to
sunshine and a cloudless sky. I was so happy that we wouldn’t have to hike in
the rain that day! However, there was
something weird on my tent. I flicked
the side of my tent with my finger and realized that it had snowed overnight
and there was snow on my tent! I
couldn’t believe that it had gotten cold enough to snow, but Carl said that
that’s how it is in the mountains. The
ground was cold enough that the snow stayed until the sun hit it as it rose
over the mountains. Once we were up,
Carl got the cook tent around and we ate breakfast. After breakfast, I gathered my things to
bring back to my tent to pack. Once back
at my tent, I needed to brush my teeth and ‘go to the bathroom’. All that food and walking had finally hit
me! So, I walked a little ways out of
view to take care of business. Once I
was done and I started packing up my stuff, I realized that I had dropped my
toothbrush somewhere in the snow. This
may not have been a big deal, except that my toothbrush was white and It had
fallen somewhere between my tent, the cook tent and my bathroom! I was so bummed because all I could think of
was that I wouldn’t be able to brush my teeth until I got back to
Anchorage! Carl said, “I’ll help you
look, where have you walked?” So, he
followed my footprints in the snow to back track and see if he could find
it. I totally freaked out when he walked
over by my bathroom area! He’s looking around at the ground for my toothbrush
right where I just took a huge dump! How
embarrassing, but there was nothing I could do except to hope that he thought
some wild animal had been in the area.
Anyway, I walked back and forth several more times to no avail. Finally, and I swear I’m not lying, I
wandered a little bit off my footprint trail.
Then I got a weird feeling and looked down. There, right in front of me was my white
toothbrush. I don’t know who upstairs
felt sorry for me, but I’m glad they did because I was so happy I found that
stupid thing!
Once that drama was over, we
finished packing up our stuff and headed on our way. The next few days really just became the
same. We would hike all day, anywhere
from 4-9 hours, set up camp for the night, eat and relax, I would crawl into my
tent to stay warm once the sun went behind the mountains, we would get up the
next day and do it all over again.
Everywhere we hiked posed new challenges. I would say out of the 6 days, there was
really just one area that was actually ‘easy’ to hike over, and even that
didn’t last too long. Most of the time,
we were either going up and up and up for hours or going down and down and down
for hours or going over rocks or ice or thru rivers. It was so mentally exhausting because every,
single, solitary step you take had to be calculated. You just couldn’t blindly
walk along, you had to pay attention to every step. And even so, Cindy and I still fell a few
times. Of course, I think I held the
record for the most falls, but that really shouldn’t surprise anyone. Where can I place my foot? Where can my next step be placed? Where can I place my trekking pole for
balance? Should I go around this rock or
step over it? Now do that for 8 hours. It was exhausting!
But, thru all that we saw awesome
things. One day we came across an
abandoned bear den. They are actually
pretty shallow and in the spring when the bear emerges, they usually collapse
in on themselves. The den was huge tho. It looked like a backhoe had scooped one
giant scoop of dirt and then dumped it at the front of the entrance to the den. My entire tent could have easily fit inside
this den. At another point in our trip,
we were walking along and all of a sudden heard this whistling that sounded
human. Carl pointed out a couple of
marmots that were running down in the valley.
When danger approaches they let out this super loud, human sounding
whistle that alerts the other marmots that danger is in the area. We also saw a couple of eagles soaring around
during the day. But by far, the coolest
thing we saw were the bear. Carl was
great at spotting them far off in the distance.
They were always alone just walking around looking for food. They were usually off in the distance when
Carl spotted them and they never even knew we were there, except for one bear,
but that story comes later. J
L to R: My tent, Carl's tent, Cindy's tent. Same day, but a little later so the sun melted the snow |
One of the hardest and kind of
scariest things we had to do was cross ice.
I think it was the 2nd day and we were hiking up over a pass
and we had to cross this section of ice.
The incline was steep, the ice was hard and very slippery. I seriously thought Carl was insane for
wanting us to cross this. Carl just
warned us that if we slipped and fell to just get on your back and slide all the
way down until you stop. Every step we
made we had to ‘kick’ the snow to make a small ledge for our foot to go
on. The best thing for me, was to just
concentrate on what was in front of me and not think about how far down the
slide would be if we slipped and fell.
Cindy was the most nervous about crossing ice and snow. She was shaking with each step and really
went slow because she was afraid of slipping.
But after about 30 minutes we crossed this small section of ice which
was our first ice crossing. The picture
doesn’t do it justice, but I was so excited to get across this area. It was really hard and nerve wracking, but we
did it.
We also had to cross a couple of
glaciers. Crossing the glacier was
actually pretty cool and not too hard.
It was getting on and off the glacier that was hard. Both glaciers we crossed had these rivers
running between the ice and the land.
These rivers were huge and raging and they were completely created from
runoff just from the glacier. Luckily,
Carl was able to find a foot path for us to get across each time we had to
cross one of these runoff rivers. But,
because the ice is constantly shifting and moving, melting and freezing, the
path is never the same from year to year.
Once we got on the glacier, it was apparent how big and forceful this
thing was. There were fissures in the
ice that were so big we had to walk around because it was too wide to jump
over. And the boulders that this thing
could move were as big as my house! You
would come to a crack in the ice, hear rushing water, but see nothing. It kind of felt like we were crossing the
moon.
On the very last day of hiking
before we were going to get picked up by the plane, we had to cross one last
section of a glacier. It was raining and
sleeting out, I was freezing, I was soaked all the way thru, I was tired and I
was D.O.N.E. We came to the point in the
glacier where we had to cross the runoff to get back on the land. There were no easy paths across, so Carl
started checking the depth of the river with his trekking pole. By this point in time, we had crossed several
rivers. Crossing a river is such a pain
when you can’t find a path to walk across.
We would have to take our packs, socks and shoes off, put on water
shoes, roll up our pants, put our pack back on and walk through freezing water
that had a strong current and hope to God you didn’t trip and fall. As Carl was checking to see how deep the
water was I had a moment of total freak out. I
swear if he would have told us to ‘Crock up’ (put on your water shoes) I would
have just dropped all my stuff and cried.
That or just flopped dead in the water and hoped that the river carried
me to the end of the hike. The water was
way too strong and deep for us to cross on foot. So, Cindy and I stood in the freezing rain
while Carl walked around to try and figure out how to get off the glacier. He decided that we could get off the glacier
by walking down the slope of ice where the glacier butted up against the land
and where the runoff river exited the glacier.
Looking down on it, it was very steep and very slippery because it was
raining. If any of us slipped and fell,
we could have quite possibly slid down into that freezing river. I went first and even tho I was scared I made
it in 10 minutes or so. Cindy was really
nervous and Carl helped her part of the way before coming all the way down
himself. As I was standing at the bottom
looking up, I realized that Cindy was heading right towards the mouth of the
river, which she couldn’t see from her vantage point. All I could think of was her slipping and
falling into that river and we wouldn’t be able to get her out. Carl and I yelled over the roar of the
flowing water and pointed for her to go more to her right. She made it down just fine but that was
definitely the one time during the whole trip that I was actually, sincerely
scared. And I was not about to point out
where she had just walked because I didn’t want her to freak out either. From this point, we had less than an hour
more of hiking before we would get to the landing strip where we would be
picked up the next day. We had one final
wide but shallow stream to cross. Again,
Carl worked out the best path to cross it at.
He wanted us to lengthen our poles to give us better balance while
crossing the slippery river rocks. My
hands were so frozen and wet I didn’t have the strength to twist my trekking
pole to make it longer. Finally, when it
was time for me to cross, I just gave up trying to keep my shoes dry and
trudged right thru the water like an animal.
I mean really, I was soaked to the bone, so what did it matter at that
point. When I got across, Carl kind of scolded
me about not listening to him. But I
told him I couldn’t do it cuz my hands were frozen. A little bit after that, we finally made it
to the plateau where we would camp for the night. I wanted to cry because I couldn’t believe
that I had made it. I dropped my pack
and started to pull things out in the rain to set up my tent. Carl and Cindy came over and helped me put it
up cuz they saw that I was freezing so bad I couldn’t get my hands to
work. They put up my tent and I was able
to crawl in and set everything else up from inside. Because everything I had was soaked at that
point, I literally took off all my clothes and got into my sleeping bag. I made a make shift clothes line inside my
tent to hang everything on. Things
weren’t drying very fast, so I took a couple of pieces of clothing and tried to
dry them with my body heat in the sleeping bag.
I warmed up and laid there for a while, not sure if I actually dozed off
or not. At some point, I heard Carl
yelling and calling out my name. Then I
heard him yell “Bear! Bear! Get outta
here! Get out of here!” I peeked my head out of my tent to see what
was going on (by this time I did have some clothes on!). It had stopped raining at this point, but it
was still freezing out. I see Cindy run
by with her bear spray. I look around
and I see something about 10 or 20 yards away.
I realized that it was a bear up on his hind legs checking us out. I see Carl and he’s yelling at the bear and
throwing rocks at it. Seriously, at this
point I was so done that I really didn’t care if the bear ate me. I figured his stomach was at least warmer than being
outside, so I shrugged and thought, “meh, they got it” and I went back in my
tent to stay warm. A little while later
Carl let me know that he was heating up water for dinner. I told him thanks and sat and debated whether
or not I really wanted to eat because I did NOT want to put on cold, wet
clothes. My Under Armour was kind of
dry, so I begrudgingly put that on and my hiking boots and walked to the dinner
tent. As I was sitting there, I could
see steam rising from my legs cuz my clothes were obviously still wet. I shoveled down my food and ran back to my
tent to get warm. Since I was completely
dying at this point, Carl made a call on his Satilite phone to see if the plane
could come and get us a little early.
However, because the weather had been so bad up in the mountains, the
shuttle service has not been able to pick up everyone on time, so they were way
behind schedule; therefore, I had to just wait until the next morning when we
were actually scheduled to be picked up.
I literally did not move from that tent until the next day when it was
time to pack up and wait for the plane to arrive.
Around 8am the next morning, Carl
woke me up and let me know that the plane was on its way. I’ve never been more excited in my whole
life! So we packed up as fast as we
could and waited for the little brush plane to arrive. After about 40 minutes he showed up, we
loaded up and we flew back to McCarthy.
Once we were back in town, we made our way back to the lodge where
Carl’s van was parked with all of our stuff.
While Carl found out which room we would be staying in, Cindy and I were
overjoyed that we finally were able to use our cellphones and call home! I called mom to let her know that I was
alive. Of course, she immediately tells
me that she had been freaking out because while we were hiking there had been
some story that had hit the news about some guy in Alaska that had gotten eaten
by a bear. After our phone calls home,
we tore into our bags to pull out clean clothes and get stuff around for a much
needed shower. As I’m digging thru my
stuff, I find all my snacks that I had in my carry-on for traveling. Fig newtons
and dried fruit never tasted better!
I literally almost ate the whole package just standing there. Carl came back with our room assignments and
we headed to the lodge to dump our stuff and take a shower. It was so good to finally wash all the grease
and sweat off after not taking a shower for 6 days. At first I didn’t think we must have smelled
that bad, but when I stepped back in our room where all our dirty clothes were
I could not believe how much it smelled like a men’s gym locker. I had to put all my dirty clothes out in the
hallway so the room didn’t smell. After
we pulled ourselves together, we headed back into town to get something to
eat. We weren’t scheduled to head back
to Anchorage until the next day, so we had all day to hang out in McCarthy and
see the area.
About 5 miles away from McCarthy
was another town called Kennicott. Here
there had once been an old copper mine.
After all the copper in the area had been stripped from the land, the
mine went under and the town pretty much shut down. Today, it’s a national park and people come
there to tour the old mine. There’s also
a huge hotel and restaurant where people come to stay. There’s actually a lot to do in the
area. Most of the summer residents are
guides and they take the tourists on day hikes or out to climb sections of the
glacier. And being that it was Labor Day
weekend, there was also a McCarthy-Kennicott 5k race going on too. Even tho there couldn’t have been more then a
couple hundred people in total, Carl said that the town was ‘packed’ because of
the holiday weekend.
More abandoned buildings from the mine
After spending the day in
Kennicott we waited to take the shuttle van back to McCarthy. Since so many people were heading back at the
same time and there weren’t enough shuttles, we ended up packing 21 people into
this van. Apparently, according to the guides
that were on the van with us, the record is 23.
Thank god we didn’t have to go far because I’m pretty sure we were
breaking about 10 different laws. Once
we got back to the lodge, we kind of went our separate ways. I fixed a little bit to eat in the common
kitchen and then just laid down and watched a movie on my iphone. The next morning, we got up, had one last
breakfast in McCarthy and then headed out of town on our way back to
Anchorage. Once back in Anchorage, Carl
dropped me and my stuff back at the same hotel I stayed at when I had first arrived. What a weird feeling to have gone through a
week’s worth of hiking with two strangers and then to be right back where I had
started. It was very surreal. I thanked Carl and Cindy and we said our goodbyes. I took my gear inside, checked in and headed
up to my room for the night. My plane
was scheduled to leave at 5am, so all I did was eat, get cleaned up and watch
TV until about 3am because I couldn’t sleep.
The hotel shuttle then took me back to the airport, where I waited for
my flight and my trip back home. I think
it was around 8pm when I finally landed in Michigan. As I stumbled off the plane and headed toward
the luggage carousals, there was my mom,
David and Gary all waiting for me. My
mom gave me a hug and a little present.
I opened it and inside was a ‘gold’ medal for all my efforts in Alaska.
Overall, this hiking trip was by
far the hardest thing I have ever done, but it also the coolest thing I have
ever done and I’m really glad I did it.
And I’m already thinking about where I can go hiking for next year J
What I learned:
Everyone in McCarthy owns a
dog. The dog population is known to be
higher than the human population.
I saw ATV’s with little boxes and
cages strapped to them for dogs to ride more comfortably.
There is a law that no billboards
are allowed in the countryside. It’s
weird to drive 6 hours and not see a single billboard sign.
All residents get a stipend from
oil sales and it’s based on each individual and how much is made each year from
oil sales. So, if you are a family of 2 adults and 2 kids, you will check a
check for 4 people. Even if the kids are under 18.
The weather in the mountains is
so unpredictable. In one day we would see snow, sleet, and sun. We would be cold and have to wear all our
layers and then be so hot that we are in a t-shirt.
It is so expensive. Each meal we
had in McCarthy would cost about $20 per person. The nearest big box store from
McCarthy is Anchorage, which is 6 hours away.
You lose all perspective in the
mountains. Because you can see for
miles, it’s really confusing as to how far away something is.
A list of Carl-isms, Cindy-isms and Amy-isms:
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See the tiny, red circle? From where we are in the picture, it took us 6 hours to get there. |
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There were two hikers in the distance |
"Derama" - The word 'Drama' as said by Carl. Any unforseen event caused by careless and stupid humans
"Crock-up" - Putting your water shoes on when Carl needs you to cross a creek, which in actuality is a raging river.
"It's kind of a project" - Just when you think hiking is hard enough, and these words are muttered, be aware that it's only going to get way harder to the point where you want to lay down, curl up in a ball and cry.
"Tor-till-aahs" - How Cindy and presumably all southerners say the word tortillas.
"Paahp" - Apparently the way I say 'pop', which in itself is a hilarious word to people who did not grow up in the midwest. I'm supposed to say 'soda' or 'coke'....whatever, it's pop.
If you want to see all the pictures from my trip, check them out here:
What a beautiful post. Thanks...
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